Compositions containing a phospholipid, a nonionic surfactant, and a phosphate ester for lifting color and/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates

ABSTRACT

The present invention is drawn to a composition and method for lifting color and/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates, the composition containing: (a) at least one phospholipid; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant; (c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; and (d) at least one oxidizing agent. The compositions of the present invention may optionally contain at least one thickening agent, at least one alkaline agent, at least one fatty substance other than a fatty acid, and at least one salt.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to novel compositions for lightening thecolor of hair and for imparting shine based on a combination of at leastone phospholipid, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least onephosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkylphosphate esters, and at least one oxidizing agent.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

It is known that consumers desire to use cosmetic and personal carecompositions that enhance the appearance of keratinous substrates suchas hair and skin by changing the color of the hair or skin and/or byimparting various properties to hair or skin such as shine andconditioning. The process of changing the color of hair can involveeither depositing an artificial color onto the hair which provides adifferent shade or color to the hair or lifting the color of the hair,such as for example, from a dark brown shade to a medium brown or alight brown shade.

The process of lifting the color of keratinous substrates such as hair,also known as lightening, generally requires the use of compositionsthat comprise at least one oxidizing agent. The role of this oxidizingagent is to break down the melanin of hair, which, depending on thenature of the oxidizing agent present, results in a more or lesspronounced lightening of the color of hair fibers. In certain instances,hair lightening compositions may possess an alkalinity such that thesecompositions may have a pH value of above 7 and may require the presenceof an alkaline agent.

In order to improve the performance of compositions for lifting color,the use of new and additional ingredients and novel combinations ofingredients are continuously sought; however, the choice of ingredientscould pose difficulties insofar as they must improve the liftingcapability of the composition without being detrimental to otherproperties of the composition such as its application, rheology orviscosity properties and/or resulting into more disadvantages such asincreased damage or a less healthy look to the hair. It is therefore,important to provide the consumer with a hair lightening or liftingcomposition and method that can lift the color of the hair in anefficient manner, not only to the degree of lift desired, but also withthe added benefit of obtaining better lift compared to current productsand methods without resulting in more damage to the hair. At the sametime, it is also desirable that such a composition and method canprovide other advantageous properties to the hair such as shine,conditioning, and a healthy appearance to the hair. Furthermore, it ispreferable to formulate such compositions that are less costly tomanufacture by requiring less ingredients and/or lower levels ofingredients.

Thus, the objective of the present invention is to obtain novelcompositions for lifting or lightening the color of the hair. Anotherobjective of the invention is to obtain compositions that impartdesirable shine to the hair and other advantages to the hair such asconditioning, a healthy appearance and less damage to the hair. Finally,it is an objective of the present invention to provide a compositionthat effectively lifts color with lowered cost of production.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

In order to achieve these and other advantages, the present invention isdrawn to a ready-to-use aqueous composition for lifting color and/orimparting shine onto keratinous substrates containing, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium,

a) at least one phospholipid;b) at least one nonionic surfactant;c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphateesters and alkyl phosphate esters;d) at least one oxidizing agent;e) optionally, at least one thickening agent;f) optionally, at least one alkaline agent;g) optionally, at least one fatty substance other than a fatty acid; andh) optionally, at least one salt.

The present invention is also drawn to methods of lifting color and/orimparting shine onto keratinous substrates, comprising applying onto thekeratinous substrates the above-disclosed ready-to-use aqueouscomposition.

Furthermore, the present invention is drawn to a kit for lifting colorand/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about” which encompasses ±10%.

“At least one” as used herein means one or more and thus includesindividual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

“Keratinous substrate” may be chosen from, for example, hair, skin,eyelashes, eyebrows, lips and nails.

“Formed from,” as used herein, means obtained from chemical reaction of,wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions andinduced chemical reactions. As used herein, the phrase “formed from”, isopen ended and does not limit the components of the composition to thoselisted, e.g., as component (i) and component (ii). Furthermore, thephrase “formed from” does not limit the order of adding components tothe composition or require that the listed components (e.g., components(i) and (ii)) be added to the composition before any other components.

“Hydrocarbons,” as used herein, include alkanes, alkenes, and alkynes,wherein the alkanes comprise at least one carbon, and the alkenes andalkynes each comprise at least two carbons; further wherein thehydrocarbons may be chosen from linear hydrocarbons, branchedhydrocarbons, and cyclic hydrocarbons; further wherein the hydrocarbonsmay optionally be substituted; and further wherein the hydrocarbons mayoptionally further comprise at least one heteroatom intercalated in thehydrocarbon chain.

“Silicone compound,” as used herein, includes, for example, silica,silanes, silazanes, siloxanes, and organosiloxanes; and refers to acompound comprising at least one silicon; wherein the silicone compoundmay be chosen from linear silicone compounds, branched siliconecompounds, and cyclic silicone compounds; further wherein the siliconecompound may optionally be substituted; and further wherein the siliconecompound may optionally further comprise at least one heteroatomintercalated in the silicone chain, wherein the at least one heteroatomis different from the at least one silicon.

“Substituted,” as used herein, means comprising at least onesubstituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, suchas oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, suchas hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups,oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups,amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups,ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups,siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may befurther substituted.

“Polymers,” as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymersformed from at least two different types of monomers.

The term “substantially free of ammonia” as defined herein means thatthe composition of the present invention is either completely free ofammonia (including ammonium ions) or contains no appreciable amount ofammonia (including ammonium ions), for example, no more than 1% byweight, or no more than 0.5% by weight, or no more than 0.3% by weight,or no more than 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

It has been surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that theabove-disclosed compositions and method lifted or lightened the color ofhair effectively and/or imparted desirable shine to the hair.

Phospholipid

The phospholipids of the present invention are chosen from organicphospholipids. Particularly preferred organic phospholipids for use inthe present invention include lecithins. Lecithins are mixtures ofphospholipids, i.e., of diglycerides of fatty acids linked to an esterof phosphoric acid. Preferably, lecithins are diglycerides of stearic,palmitic, and oleic acids linked to the choline ester of phosphoricacid. Lecithin is usually defined either as pure phosphatidyl cholinesor as crude mixtures of phospholipids which include phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, other phospholipids, and a variety of other compounds such asfatty acids, triglycerides, sterols, carbohydrates, and glycolipids.

The lecithin used in the present invention may be present in the form ofa liquid, powder, or granules. Lecithins useful in the inventioninclude, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.For example, ALCOLEC S is a fluid soy lecithin, ALCOLEC F 100 is apowder soy lecithin, and ALCOLEC Z3 is a hydroxylated lecithin, all ofwhich are available from the American Lecithin Company.

Other than lecithins, additional examples of phospholipids which may beuseful in the present invention include, but are not limited to,multifunctional biomimetic phospholipids. For example, the followingmultifunctional biomimetic phospholipids manufactured by UniqemaIndustries may be useful: cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate(PHOSPHOLIPID PTC), sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate(PHOSPHOLIPID CDM), stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate(PHOSPHOLIPID SV), sodium borageamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloridephosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID GLA), linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloridephosphate (PHOSPHOLIPID EFA) and those biomimetic phospholipidsbelonging to the Arlasilk® Phospholipid series. A particularly preferredmultifunctional biomimetic phospholipid for use in the present inventionis linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.

In the present invention, the at least one phospholipid is preferablyused in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, preferablyabout 0.5% to about 10% by weight, and more preferably from about 1% toabout 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic Surfactants

In general, nonionic surfactants having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance(HLB) of from 8 to 20, are contemplated for use by the presentinvention. Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in thecompositions of the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's“Detergents and Emulsifiers,” North American Edition (1986), publishedby Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's “FunctionalMaterials,” North American Edition (1992); both of which areincorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

Examples of nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are notlimited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols,alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides,wherein the alkyl chain is in the C₁₂-C₅₀ range, preferably in theC₁₆-C₄₀ range, more preferably in the C₂₄ to C₄₀ range, and having fromabout 1 to about 110 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected fromthe group consisting of C₂-C₆ oxides and their mixtures, with ethyleneoxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferredalkoxides. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, orunsaturated. Of these alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants, the alkoxylatedalcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated alcohols and propoxylatedalcohols are more preferred. The alkoxylated alcohols may be used aloneor in mixtures thereof. The alkoxylated alcohols may also be used inmixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.

Other representative examples of such ethoxylated fatty alcohols includelaureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylationof 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree ofethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having anaverage degree of ethoxylation of 10) steareth-10 (a stearyl alcoholethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), andsteareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree ofethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having anaverage degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcoholethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10(a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylationof 10), and other derivatives and mixtures of the preceding.

Also available commercially are Brij® nonionic surfactants from Unigema,Wilmington, Del. Typically, Brij® is the condensation products ofaliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethyleneoxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain andhaving from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij® 72(i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij® 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).

Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are alkyl glycosides, whichare the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C₈-C₃₀alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can berepresented by the formula (S)_(n) —O—R wherein S is a sugar moiety suchas glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integerof from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C₈-C₃₀ alkyl group. Examplesof long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived includedecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristylalcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of thesesurfactants are alkyl polyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R isa C₈-C₂₀ alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decylpolyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside(available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS), all the above-identifiedpolyglucosides APG® are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also usefulherein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucroselaurate.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention areglyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters, including but not limited to,glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C₁₆-C₂₂saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryloleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glycerylmonopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, andpolyglyceryl esters of C₁₆-C₂₂ saturated, unsaturated and branched chainfatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate,polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglycerylmonooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters.Preferable are sorbitan esters of C₁₆-C₂₂ saturated, unsaturated andbranched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they aretypically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixturesof mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitablesorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN® 80), sorbitansesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel® 83 from Uniqema, Wilmington, Del.),sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL® 6 from Croda, Inc., Edison,N.J.), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g.,SPAN® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates(e.g., SPAN® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate andsorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred emulsifiers for use inthe present invention.

Also suitable for use herein are alkoxylated derivatives of glycerylesters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides, wherein the alkoxygroups is selected from the group consisting of C₂-C₆ oxides and theirmixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of thesematerials being the preferred. Nonlimiting examples of commerciallyavailable ethoxylated materials include TWEEN® (ethoxylated sorbitanmono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C₁₂ to O₁₈ fatty acids with an averagedegree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, afatty acid, or a glyceride with a C₄ to C₃₆ carbon chain, preferably aC₁₂ to C₁₈ carbon chain, more preferably a O₁₆ to C₁₈ carbon chain,derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8. HLB is understood to mean thebalance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and thesize and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. Suchderivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates,polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates,polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to one of ordinary skillin the art. Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above,such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB ispreferably greater than or equal to 8. Preferably the nonionicsurfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10-25, morepreferably from 10-20 moles.

The nonionic surfactant will typically be present in the composition inan amount of from about 0.1% to about 70% by weight, preferably fromabout 0.5% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from about 0.5% toabout 30% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 20%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Phosphate Ester

The at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphateesters and alkyl phosphate esters of the present invention may be chosenfrom a mono-ester corresponding to formula (I) and salts thereof:

RO[CH₂O]_(u)[(CH₂)_(x)CH(R′)(CH₂)_(y)(CH₂)_(z)O]_(v)[CH₂CH₂O]_(w)—PO—(OH)₂  Formula(I)

a di-ester corresponding to formula (II) and salts thereof:

{RO[CH₂O]_(u)[(CH₂)_(x)CH(R′)(CH₂)_(y)(CH₂)_(z)O]_(v)[CH₂CH₂O]_(w)}₂PO—(OH)  Formula(II)

a tri-ester corresponding to formula (III):

{RO[CH₂O]_(u)[(CH₂)_(x)CH(R′)(CH₂)_(y)(CH₂)_(z)O]_(v)[CH₂CH₂O]_(w)}₃PO  Formula(III)

and combinations thereof,wherein:R is a hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms;u, v and w, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to60;x, y and z, independently of one another, represent numbers of from 0 to1′3;R′ represents hydrogen, alkyl, the sum of x+y+z being ≧0.

The numbers u, v, and w each represent the degree of alkoxylation.Whereas, on a molecular level, the numbers u, v and w and the totaldegree of alkoxylation can only be integers, including zero, on amacroscopic level they are mean values in the form of broken numbers.

In formulas (I), (II) and (III), R is linear or branched, acyclic orcyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, substituted orunsubstituted, preferably a linear or branched, acyclic C₆₋₄₀ alkyl oralkenyl group or a C₁₋₄₀ alkyl phenyl group, more particularly a C₈₋₂₂alkyl or alkenyl group or a C₄₋₁₈ alkyl phenyl group, more preferably aC₁₂₋₁₈ alkyl group or alkenyl group or a C₆₋₁₆ alkyl phenyl group; u, v,w, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to 20,more preferably a number from 3 to 17 and most preferably a number from5 to 15;

x, y, z, independently of one another, is preferably a number from 2 to13, more preferably a number from 1 to 10 and most preferably a numberfrom 0 to 8.

In general, the lower the number of carbon atoms in the R group of thephosphate ester, the more irritating to the skin and the less soluble inwater the phosphate ester becomes. In contrast, the higher the number ofcarbon atoms in the R group, the milder to the skin and the thicker andmore waxy the resultant product becomes. Accordingly, for best results,R should have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters for use in thepresent invention are PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS™ SG), Oleth-3phosphate (CRODAFOS™ N3 acid), Oleth-10 phosphate (CRODAFOS™ N10 acid),and a mixture of Ceteth-10 phosphate and Dicetyl phosphate (CRODAFOS™CES), all sold by Croda. Particularly preferred alkyl phosphate estersare Cetyl phosphate (Hostaphat® CC 100), Stearyl phosphate (Hostaphae®CS 120) from Clariant.

The at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphateesters and alkyl phosphate esters is present in the present compositionin an amount of from greater than 0% to about 20% by weight; preferablyfrom about 0.05% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1%to about 5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.5% to about3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Oxidizing Agent

The compositions of the present invention require an oxidizing agentwhich may be chosen, for example, from a peroxide, a persulfate, aperborate, a percarbonate, alkali metal bromates, ferricyanides or amixture thereof. Oxidizing agents that may also be used include at leastone redox enzyme such as laccases, peroxidases, and 2-electronoxidoreductases, such as uricase, where appropriate in the presence oftheir respective donor or co-factor. Oxygen in the air may also beemployed as an oxidizing agent.

In one embodiment, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide present inan aqueous solution whose titre may range from 1 to 40 volumes, such asfrom 5 to 40 volumes or such as from 5 to 20 volumes.

In another embodiment, the oxidizing agent is a persulfate and/or amonopersulfate such as, for example, potassium persulfate, sodiumpersulfate, ammonium persulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. In oneembodiment the oxidizing agents in the present disclosure are selectedfrom hydrogen peroxide, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate andmixtures thereof.

In general, the oxidizing agent will be present in an amount of fromabout 0.05 to about 40% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about 30%by weight, or such as from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or such asfrom about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.

Thickening Agent

Thickening agents of the present invention may be chosen from polymericthickeners and non-polymeric thickeners as described in US2010154140A,herein incorporated by reference in its entirety.

Thickening agents of the present invention may be chosen from polymericthickeners and non-polymeric thickeners. The at least one polymericthickener can be chosen from ionic or non-ionic, associative ornon-associative polymers. Exemplary polymeric thickeners include variousnative gums. Representative non-polymeric thickening agents includemineral salts such as sodium chloride; oxyethylenated molecules andespecially ethoxylated alkyl or acyl derivatives of polyols. Thesepolymers can be modified physically or chemically.

The at least one thickening agent of the present invention is preferablyused in an amount of from greater than 0% to about 15% by weight,preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, and more preferablyfrom about 1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.

Alkaline Agents

The at least one alkaline agent of the present invention may be chosenfrom organic amines, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, and inorganicbases.

The organic amines may be chosen from the ones having a pKb at 25′C ofless than 12, such as less than 10 or such as less than 6. It should benoted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highestbasicity.

Organic amines may be chosen from organic amines comprising one or twoprimary, secondary, or tertiary amine functions, and at least one linearor branched C₁-C₈ alkyl groups bearing at least one hydroxyl radical.

Organic amines may also be chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di-or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or differentC₁-C₄hydroxyalkyl radicals, ethylamines, ethyleneamines, quinoline,aniline and cyclic amines, such as pyrroline, pyrrole, pyrrolidine,imidazole, imidazolidine, imidazolidinine, morpholine, pyridine,piperidine, pyrimidine, piperazine, triazine and derivatives thereof.

Among the compounds of the alkanolamine type that may be mentionedinclude but not limited to: monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine,N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol,triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol,3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, andtris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

The organic amines correspond to the formula (IV):

wherein W is chosen from C₁-C₆ alkylene residues optionally substitutedwith a hydroxyl group or a C₁-C₆ alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, whichmay be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, C₁-C₆alkyl radicals, C₁-C₆ hydroxyalkyl radicals, and C₁-C₆ aminoalkylradicals.

Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include but not limitedto: 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, andspermidine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino acids.

As non-limiting examples, the amino acids that may be used may be ofnatural or synthetic origin, in L, D, or racemic form, and comprise atleast one acid function chosen from, for instance, carboxylic acid,sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid, and phosphoric acid functions. The aminoacids may be in their neutral or ionic form.

Further as non-limiting examples, the amino acids may be chosen frombasic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionallyincluded in a ring or in a ureido function.

Such basic amino acids may be chosen from those corresponding to formula(A) below:

wherein R is a group chosen from:

The compounds corresponding to formula (A) may be chosen from histidine,lysine, arginine, ornithine, and citrulline.

Amino acids that may be used in the present disclosure include but notlimited to: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine,citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine,histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine,proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, and valine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from basic aminoacids. The amino acids may be chosen from, for instance, arginine,lysine and histidine, or mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from organic aminesof heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentionedin the amino acids, non-limiting mention may also be made of pyridine,piperidine, imidazole, 1,2,4-triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from amino aciddipeptides. Amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the presentdisclosure include but not limited to: carnosine, anserine, and baleine.

In some embodiments, the organic amines are chosen from compoundscomprising a guanidine function. Organic amines of this type that may beused in the present disclosure include, besides arginine that hasalready been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine,1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin,agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid,4-guanidinobutyric acid, and2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

As a non-limiting example, the organic amines are chosen fromalkanolamines. For example, the organic amines are chosen from2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol and monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.Further as an example, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.

The alkaline agent may be an organic amine in salt form. The term“organic amine salt,” as used herein, means organic or mineral salts ofan organic amine as described above.

As a non-limiting example, the organic salts may be chosen from thesalts of organic acids, such as citrates, lactates, glycolates,gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.

Further as a non-limiting example, the mineral salts may be chosen fromhydrohalides (for example hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates, and phosphates.

The ammonium salts that may be used in the composition according to thepresent disclosure may be chosen from the following acid salts:carbonate, bicarbonate. For instance, the salt is the carbonate, such asammonium carbonate.

The inorganic bases that may be used in the composition according to thepresent disclosure may be chosen from alkali metal phosphates andcarbonates such as, for example, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate,sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, potassium carbonate, potassiumbicarbonate, and their derivatives.

The inorganic bases may also include alkali metals of carboxylates suchas, for example, sodium acetate, potassium acetate, sodium citrate, andpotassium citrate, and their derivatives.

According to at least one embodiment, the ready-to-use compositions ofthe present invention comprise an alkaline agent chosen from at leastone organic amine such as at least one alkanolamine. In certainpreferred embodiments, when the composition comprises more than onealkaline agent, including an alkanolamine and ammoniumhydroxides orsalts thereof, the amount of organic amine(s) are, for example, higherthan the amount of ammonia/ammonium hydroxide.

According to at least one embodiment, the ready-to-use compositions ofthe present invention contain a small amount of ammonia, or even noammonia. According to this embodiment, the ready-to-use composition, forexample, contains at least one alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine.

The at least one alkaline agent may be employed in the composition ofthe present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 30%by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, or such asfrom about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, or such as from about 1% toabout 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the ready-to-use composition according to the invention canrange from about 2 to about 12, such as from about 7 to 12, or such asfrom about 7 to about 11 or such as from about 7.5 to about 10 or suchas from about 2 to about 7 or such as from about 5 to about 7.

When the pH of, the ready-to-use composition is at least 7, lift orlightening of the color of keratinous substrates and/or shine onkeratinous substrates is achieved when the composition is applied ontothe keratinous substrates. Conversely, when the pH of the ready-to-usecomposition is below 7, only shine on keratinous substrates may beachieved.

Fatty Substance

The composition of the present invention may further comprise at leastone fatty substance other than a fatty acid.

“Fatty substance” means an organic compound insoluble in water at normaltemperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubilitybelow 5% and such as below 1% and further such as below 0.1%). Fattysubstances have in their structure a chain of at least two siloxanegroups or at least one hydrocarbon chain having at least 6 carbon atoms.Moreover, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents inthe same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example inchloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The composition of the present invention comprises at least 10% of fattysubstances by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,these substances being other than fatty acid.

Fatty substances are, for example, chosen from lower alkanes, fattyalcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol, oils such asmineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic non-silicone oils, non-siliconewaxes and silicones.

In some embodiments, the alcohols and esters have at least one linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, comprising 6 to 30carbon atoms, optionally substituted, for example, with at least onehydroxyl group (for example 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, thesecompounds can have one to three, conjugated or unconjugated,carbon-carbon double bonds.

With regard to the lower alkanes, in some embodiments, these have from 6to 16 carbon atoms and are linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Asexamples, alkanes can be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffinssuch as isohexadecane and isodecane.

Non-limiting examples of non-silicone oils usable in the composition ofthe disclosure, include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such asperhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquidtriglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such astriglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or for example sunfloweroil, maize oil, soya oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil,hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, sunflower oil,castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such asthose sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under thenames MIGLYOL® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojobaoil, shea butter oil; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms,linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffinoils, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, polydecenes, hydrogenatedpolyisobutene such as Parleam®. fluorinated, partially hydrocarbon oils;as fluorinated oils, non-limiting examples includeperfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, soldunder the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFLFluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanessuch as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under thenames “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the 3M Company, orbromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the companyAtochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;derivatives of perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the 3M Company.

The fatty alcohols usable as fatty substances in the composition of thedisclosure include, but are not limited to, non-alkoxylated, saturatedor unsaturated, linear or branched, and have from 6 to 30 carbon atomsand more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; For example, cetylalcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol),octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

The exemplary non-silicone wax or waxes that can be used in thecomposition of the disclosure are chosen from carnauba wax, candelillawax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such asolive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes offlowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by thecompany BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswaxes, or modifiedbeeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials usableaccording to the disclosure are, for example, marine waxes such as thatsold by the company SOPHIM under reference M82, waxes of polyethylene orof polyolefins in general.

The exemplary fatty acid esters are the esters of saturated orunsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic mono- or polyacids andof saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆aliphatic mono- orpolyalcohols, the total number of carbons of the esters being, forexample, greater than or equal to 10.

Among the monoesters, non-limiting mentions can be made ofdihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyllactate; C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate;linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyloctanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetylisostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexylisononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate;octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates,ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates suchas isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl myristate,hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyllaurate, and 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Further non-limiting mentions of esters can be made of the esters ofC₉-C₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂ alcohols and the estersof mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C₂-C₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- orpentahydroxy alcohols.

Even further non-limiting examples of esters include: diethyl sebacate;diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyladipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecylerucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryltrilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleylcitrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, exemplary esters include ethyl,isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate,2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl,cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate,isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurateand isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-estersof sugars of C₆-C₂₀, such as C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. “Sugar” as used in thedisclosure means oxygen-containing hydrocarbon compounds that possessseveral alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions,and having at least carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides,oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, non-limiting examples include sucrose, glucose,galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose,xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, for example alkylated, such asmethylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can, for example, be chosen fromthe esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and oflinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀, such as C₁₂-C₂₂fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one tothree, conjugated or unconjugated, carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to at least one embodiment can also be chosen frommono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate,behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate,arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as the oleo-palmitate,oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate mixed esters.

For example, the mono- and di-esters can be used, and such as the mono-or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate,oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose.

Non-limiting mention can be made of the product sold under the nameGLUCATE® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a dioleate ofmethylglucose.

Exemplary esters or of mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acidinclude: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70,SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting respectively thepalmito-stearates of sucrose formed from 73% of monoester and 27% of di-and tri-ester, from 61% of monoester and 39% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, from 52% of monoester and 48% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, from 45% of monoester and 55% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, from 39% of monoester and 61% of di-, tri-, andtetra-ester, and the mono-laurate of sucrose; the products sold underthe name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example with the reference B370 andcorresponding to the behenate of sucrose formed from 20% of monoesterand 80% of di-triester-polyester; sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearatemarketed by the company Goldschmidt under the name TEGOSOFT® PSE.

The silicones usable in the composition of the present disclosureinclude but are not limited to volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linearor branched silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having aviscosity from 5×10⁻⁶ to 2.5 m²/s at 25° C., such as from 1×10⁻⁵ to 1m²/s.

The silicones usable according to the disclosure can be in the form ofoils, waxes, resins or gums.

In some embodiments, the silicone is chosen from thepolydialkylsiloxanes, such as the polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and theorgano-modified polysiloxanes having at least one functional groupselected from the poly(alkoxylated) groups, the amine groups and thealkoxy groups.

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of WalterNOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press.They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are, for example, chosen fromthose with a boiling point between 60° C. and 260° C., and for furtherexamples, chosen from:

the cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, such as from 4 to 5silicon atoms. It can be, for example, the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxanemarketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE orSILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketedunder the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE®70045 V5 by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting mentions can also be made of the cyclocopolymers of thedimethylsiloxanes/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE®FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of the formula V:

Non-limiting mentions can further be made of the mixtures of cyclicpolydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, suchas the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andtetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture ofoctamethylcyclotetrasiloxane andoxy-1,1′-(hexa-2,2,2′,2′,3,3′-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane.

Other suitable volatile silicones include the linear volatilepolydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and with a viscosityless than or equal to 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s at 25° C. An example isdecamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed under the name “SH 200” by the companyTORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described inthe article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, January 76,p. 27-32-TODD BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

Even further non-limiting mentions can be made of non-volatilepolydialkylsiloxanes, gums and resins of polydialkylsiloxanes,polyorganosiloxanes modified with the aforementioned organofunctionalgroups, and mixtures thereof.

These silicones are, for example, chosen from the polydialkylsiloxanes,such as the polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. Theviscosity of the silicones is measured at 25° C. according to standardASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention can be made of,non-exhaustively, the following commercial products: the SILBIONE® oilsof series 47 and 70 047 or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, forexample the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the MIRASIL® seriesmarketed by the company RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series from thecompany DOW CORNING such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s; theVISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils of the SF series(SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Non-limiting mention can also be made of the polydimethylsiloxanes withdimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA),such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, non-limiting mentions can be madeof the products marketed under the names “ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801” bythe company GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C₁-C₂₀) siloxanes.

The silicone gums usable according to the disclosure are, for example,polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxanes with highnumber-average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000,000 usedalone or mixed in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from thevolatile silicones, the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, thepolyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, the isoparaffins, thepolyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane andmixtures thereof.

Products usable according to the disclosure are, for example, mixturessuch as: mixtures formed from a chain end hydroxylatedpolydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclicpolydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as theproduct Q2 1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING; mixtures of apolydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF1214 Silicone Fluid from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, said productbeing a gum SF 30 corresponding to a dimethicone, having anumber-average molecular weight of 500,000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixturesof two PDMS of different viscosities, for example, of a PDMS gum and aPDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC.The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 as defined above havinga viscosity of 20 m²/s and an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5×10⁻⁶ m²/s.This product, for example, has 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of oil SF 96.

The organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the disclosure includebut are not limited to crosslinked siloxane systems containing theunits: R₂Si_(2/2), R₃SiO_(1/2), RSiO_(3/2) and SiO_(4/2)

in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. For example,R denotes a C₁-C₄ lower alkyl group such as methyl.

Among these resins, non-limiting mention can be made of the productmarketed under the name “DOW CORNING 593” or those marketed under thenames “SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267” by the company GENERALELECTRIC, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.

Non-limiting mention can also be made of the resins of thetrimethylsiloxysilicate type, such as those marketed under the namesX22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU.

The organomodified silicones usable according to the disclosure includebut are not limited to silicones as defined previously, having in theirstructure at least one organofunctional group fixed by a hydrocarbongroup.

In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodifiedsilicones can be polydiaryl siloxanes, such as polydiphenylsiloxanes,and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the aforementionedorganofunctional groups.

The polyalkarylsiloxanes are, for example, chosen from thepolydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, the polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes,linear and/or branched, with viscosity ranging from 1×10⁻⁵ to 5×10² m²/sat 25° C.

Among these polyalkarylsiloxanes, non-limiting mentins can be made ofthe products marketed under the following names: the SILBIONE® oils ofseries 70 641 from RHODIA; the oils of the series RHODORSIL® 70 633 and763 from RHODIA; the oil DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID from DOWCORNING; the silicones of the PK series from BAYER such as the productPK20; the silicones of the series PN, PH from BAYER such as the productsPN1000 and PH1000; certain oils of the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRICsuch as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, non-limiting mention can be made ofthe polyorganosiloxanes having: polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylenegroups optionally with C₆-C₂₄ alkyl groups such as the products calleddimethicone copolyol marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the nameDC 1248 or the oils SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 from the companyUNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C₁₂)-methicone copolyol marketed by thecompany DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstitutedamine groups such as the products marketed under the name GP 4 SiliconeFluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed underthe names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING.The substituted amine groups are, for example, C₁-C₄ aminoalkyl groups;alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name“SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

In some embodiments, the at least one fatty substance is neitheralkoxylated, nor glycerolated.

For example, the at least one fatty substance is chosen from compoundsthat are liquid or pasty at room temperature and at atmosphericpressure.

For further example, the at least one fatty substance is a compound thatis liquid at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The at least one fatty substance is, for example, chosen from the loweralkanes, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid, esters of fatty alcohol,and oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable and synthetic oils, thesilicones.

According to at least one embodiment, the at least one fatty substanceis chosen from liquid paraffin, polydecenes, liquid esters of fattyacids and of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, for example, the atleast one fatty substance of the composition according to the disclosurecan be non-silicone.

In some embodiments, the at least one fatty substance is chosen fromalkanes, hydrocarbons and silicones.

The composition according to the disclosure comprises at least one fattysubstance other than a fatty acid, which is present in the compositionin an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition. For example, the concentration of fatty substances isfrom about 10 to about 80% by weight, such as from about 15 to about 65%by weight, further such as from about 20 to about 55% by weight, basedon the total weight of the composition.

Salts

The at least one salt of the present invention may be chosen from alkaliearth metal salts and metal salts.

Suitable alkali earth metal salts may be chosen from Lithium, Sodium,Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium salts.

Suitable metal salts may be chosen from Manganese, Iron, Copper, Silver,Zinc, Aluminum salts.

In some embodiments, the salt is a mono- or a divalent metal. In someembodiments, the metal salt is a salt of a transition metal. In otherembodiments, the metal salt is not a salt of an alkali earth metal.

The at least one salt of the present invention may be also chosen fromsalt compounds having organic counterions and salt compounds havingpolyatomic counterions such as an ammonium ion or such as a substitutedammonium ion.

In other embodiments, the at least one salt of the present invention maybe chosen from silicates. Suitable silicates include, but are notlimited to, metal silicates, organic silicates and polyatomic silicates.

Within the meaning of the present disclosure, “salt” is understood toinclude, but not limited to, the oxides and hydroxides of metals and thesalts proper that can result from the action of an acid on a metal. Insome embodiments, the at least one salt is not an oxide. In someembodiments, the at least one salt is not a hydroxide. Mention may bemade, among the salts, of halides, such as chlorides, fluorides andiodides, sulfates, phosphates, lactates, acetates, glycinates,aspartates, nitrates, perchlorates, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates,silicates, borates and salts of carboxylic acids and polymeric complexeswhich can support said salts, and also their mixtures.

The salts of carboxylic acids which can be used in the disclosure alsoinclude salts of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, such as gluconate.

Mention may be made, as example of polymeric complexes which can supportsaid salts, of manganese pyrrolidonecarboxylate.

One particularly preferred salt of the present invention is sodiumsulfate.

The at least one salt of the present invention can be present in anamount ranging from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight or such as fromabout 0.5% to about 30% by weight, or such as from about 1% to about 20%by weight, or such as from about 1% to about 10% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition.

It was surprisingly found that when the at least one salt is employed inthe compositions of the present invention, less amounts of the alkalineagent and/or the oxidizing agent are necessary in order to achieve thedesired degree of lift or lightening of the color of keratinoussubstrates. This would be more desirable since higher levels of thealkaline agent and/or oxidizing agent could result in more damage to thehair.

Moreover, when both the at least one salt and an oxidizing agent arepresent in the compositions of the present invention, peroxy compoundssuch as peroxyacids and peroxysalts, for example, peroxyborates,peroxycarbonates and peroxysulfates, may form in said compositions.

Cationic Polymers

The composition according to the present invention can also comprise atleast one cationic polymer.

In at least one embodiment, the at least one cationic polymer includedin the composition of the disclosure is not chosen from cationicassociative polymers. In other words, these cationic polymers do notcomprise in their structure a pendent or terminal hydrophobic chain, forexample of alkyl or alkenyl type, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The at least one cationic polymer of the composition according to thedisclosure can be chosen from, for example:

(1) homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylicesters or amides and comprising at least one unit chosen from units offormulae (VI), (VII), (VIII) and (IX):

wherein:

R₃, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or aCH₃ radical;

A, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branchedC₁-C₆ and, for example, C₂-C₃ alkyl group or a C₁-C₄ hydroxyalkyl group;

R₄, R₅ and R₆, which may be identical or different, represent a C₁-C₁₈alkyl group or a benzyl radical, such as a C₁-C₆ alkyl group;

R₁ and R₂, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or aC₁-C₆ alkyl group, for example methyl or ethyl;

X⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as amethosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of this family can also contain at least one unit derivedfrom at least one comonomer which may be chosen from the family ofacrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides andmethacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C₁-C₄) alkyls,acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such asvinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among the polymers of this family, exemplary mention may be madeof:

copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylatequaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as theproduct sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,

the copolymers of acrylamide and ofmethacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example,in EP 80 976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CibaGeigy,

the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniummethosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,

quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkylacrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under thename GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for instance GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT755, or alternatively the products known as COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidoneterpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 bythe company ISP,

vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold, forexample, under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamidecopolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS100 by thecompany ISP, and crosslinked polymers ofmethacryloyloxy(C₁-C₄)alkyltri(C₁-C₄)alkylammonium salts such as thepolymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization ofacrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methylchloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinkingwith a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, such asmethylenebisacrylamide. In at least one embodiment, a crosslinkedacrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer(20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weightof the copolymer in mineral oil can be used. This dispersion is soldunder the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the company Ciba. In some embodiments,a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymercontaining about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in aliquid ester can be used. These dispersions are sold under the namesSALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

Other examples are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternaryammonium groups, such as the polymers sold under the names JR (JR 400,JR 125, JR 30M) or LR (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union CarbideCorporation.

(2) copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted with awater-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, such as hydroxymethyl-,hydroxyethyl- or hydroxy-propylcelluloses grafted, for instance, with aMethacryloylethyltrimethylammonium,methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.These are sold under the name CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by thecompany National Starch.

(3) non-cellulose cationic polysaccharides, such as guar gumscontaining, trialkylammonium cationic groups. Such products are sold,for example, under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17and JAGUAR C162 by the company Meyhall.

(4) polymers of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene orhydroxyalkylene radicals.

(5) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, bypolycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, adianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, abis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkylhalide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction ofa difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, abis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, anepihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; thecrosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides canbe alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function,they can be quaternized. Exemplary mention may be made of the adipicacid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold underthe name CARTARETINE F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of at least one polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondaryamine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid andsaturated C₃-C₈ aliphatic dicarboxylic acids. The molar ratio betweenthe polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1to 1.4:1; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted withepichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to thesecondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold, for example, under the nameHERCOSETT 57, PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules.

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine and of dialkyldiallylammonium,such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituentof the chain, at least one unit corresponding to formula (X) or (XI):

wherein formulae k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to1; R₉ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R₇ and R₈,independently of each other, denote a C₁-C₈ alkyl group, a hydroxyalkylgroup in which the alkyl group is C₁-C₅, an amidoalkyl group in whichthe alkyl is C₁-C₄; or R₇ and R₈ denote, together with the nitrogen atomto which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl ormorpholinyl; in at least one embodiment R₇ and R₈, independently of eachother, denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl group; Y⁻ is an organic or mineral anionsuch as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate,bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Among the polymers defined above, exemplary mention may be made of thedimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the nameMERQUAT® 100 and MERQUAT® 280 by the company Nalco (and its homologuesof low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers ofdiallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the nameMERQUAT® 550.

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units of formula(XII):

wherein:

R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, which may be identical or different, representC₁-C₆ aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals orhydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals wherein the alkyl radical is C₁-C₄, oralternatively R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, together or separately, constitute,with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocyclesoptionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, oralternatively R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃ represent a linear or branched C₁-C₆alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group ora group —CO—O—R₁₄-D or —CO—NH—R₁₄-D wherein R₁₄ is an alkylene and D isa quaternary ammonium group;

A₁ and B₁ represent C₂-C₆ polymethylene groups which are linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and which optionally contain, linkedto or intercalated in the main chain, at least one aromatic ring or atleast one atom chosen from oxygen and sulfur atom or at least one groupchosen from sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide and ester groups, and

X⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

A₁, R₁₀ and R₁₂ can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they areattached, a piperazine ring;

and wherein, if A₁ denotes a linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B₁ can also denote agroup —(CH₉)_(n)—CO-D-OC—(CH₂)_(n)— wherein n is a number ranging from 1to 6, and D is chosen from:

a) a glycol residue of formula: —O—Z—O—, where Z denotes a linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one ofthe following formulae: —(CH₂—CH₂—O)_(x)—CH₂—CH₂—; or—[CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O]_(y)—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—, where x and y denote an integerranging from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree ofpolymerization or any number ranging from 1 to 4 representing an averagedegree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: —NH—Y—NH—, wherein Ydenotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternativelythe radical —CH₂—CH₂—S—S—CH₂—CB₂—; and

d) a ureylene group of formula: —NH—CO—NH—.

In at least one embodiment, X⁻ is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers, for example, have a number-average molecular massranging from 1000 to 100,000.

In some embodiments, polymers are used that consist of repeating unitscorresponding to formula (XIII):

wherein R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂ and R₁₃, which may be identical or different,denote a C₁-C₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, n and p are integersranging from 2 to 6, and X⁻ is an anion derived from a mineral ororganic acid.

In at least one embodiment, the at least one cationic polymercorresponding to this family comprise repeating units of formulae (W)and (U):

for example those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeationchromatography, ranges from 9,500 to 9,900;

for instance those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeationchromatography, is 1200.

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of repeating units offormula (XIV):

wherein p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, D may be zero or mayrepresent a group —(CH₂)_(r)—CO—wherein r denotes a number ranging from1 to 6, and X⁻ is an anion.

Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described inU.S. Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,702,906 and 4,719,282. They are described,for example, in patent application EP 122 324.

Among these polymers, examples that may be mentioned include theproducts MIRAPOL A 15, MIRAPOL AD1, MIRAPOL AZ1 and MIRAPOL 175 sold bythe company Mirinol.

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, forinstance the products sold under the names LUVIQUAT FC 905, FC 550 andFC 370 by the company BASF.

(11) vinylamide homopolymers or copolymers, such as partially hydrolysedvinylamide homopolymers such as poly(vinylamine/vinylamide)s.

(12) cationic polyurethane derivatives, for example those of elasticnature formed from the reaction:

(a1) of at least one cationic unit resulting from at least one tertiaryor quaternary amine bearing at least two reactive functions containinglabile hydrogen,

(a2) of at least one mixture of at least two different nonionic unitsbearing at least two reactive functions containing labile hydrogen, forinstance chosen from hydroxyl groups, primary or secondary amine groups,and thiol groups, and

(b) of at least one compound comprising at least two isocyanatefunctions.

(13) Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of thedisclosure include, for example, cationic proteins or cationic proteinhydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymerscontaining vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitinderivatives.

Particularly useful cationic polymers in the present invention include,but are not limited to, polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6,polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11, polyquaternium16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32,polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52,polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55,polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58,polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-63,polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66,polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73,polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76,polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79,polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81, polyquaternium-82,polyquaternium-84, polyquaternium-85, polyquaternium-86,polyquaternium-87, polyquaternium-90, polyquaternium-91,polyquaternium-92, polyquaternium-94, and guar hydroxypropyltrimoniumchloride.

Particularly preferred cationic polymers of the present inventioninclude POLYMER JR-125, POLYMER JR-400, Polymer JR-30M hydroxyethylcellulosic polymers (polyquaternium 10) available from AMERCHOL; JAGUARC® 13-S, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, available from Rhodia;and MERQUAT® 100 and 280, a dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride(polyquaternium 6) available from Nalco.

The cationic polymer is generally present in an amount of from greaterthan 0% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight,and more preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition.

The ready-to-use-composition can also comprise other compoundsconstituting the cosmetically acceptable medium. This cosmeticallyacceptable medium comprises water or a mixture of water and at least onecosmetically acceptable organic solvent.

As examples of organic solvents, non-limiting mentions can be made ofalcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, andphenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example,monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propyleneglycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether ofpropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycolas well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethylether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

The ready-to-use composition according to the disclosure can alsocomprise at least one additive used conventionally in compositions forapplication onto hair.

“Additive” means a substance that is added, different from the compoundsalready mentioned.

As examples of additives that can be used, non-limiting mentions can bemade of surfactants, antioxidants or reducing agents, penetratingagents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersants,conditioners, such as for example volatile or non-volatile, modified orunmodified silicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives,opacifiers, and antistatic agents.

The ready-to-use composition according to the disclosure can be invarious forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, lotions orpaste.

The method of the present disclosure is a method comprising applying theready-to-use composition according to the present disclosure onto thekeratinous substrates. The oxidizing agent can be added at the moment ofuse or it can be used simultaneously or sequentially with the othercompounds of the ready-to-use composition of the disclosure.

After a resting time on the keratinous substrates, for example, rangingfrom about 1 to 60 minutes, such as from about 5 to 45 minutes, thekeratinous substrates are rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo andrinsed again, then dried.

The ready-to-use compositions according to the disclosure can resultfrom mixing at least two compositions, including an oxidizingcomposition comprising at least one oxidizing agent as definedpreviously or including a composition comprising, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium, at least one salt as defined previously. Theready-to-use compositions can be obtained before application onto thekeratinous substrates, or simultaneously with application to thekeratinous substrates.

Typically, the oxidizing agent of the present invention is provided inthe form of an oxidizing composition.

In one particular embodiment, the oxidizing composition is aqueous or isin the form of an emulsion.

In another embodiment, the oxidizing composition is substantiallyanhydrous.

The term “substantially anhydrous” means that the oxidizing compositionis either completely free of water or contains no appreciable amount ofwater, for example, no more than 5% by weight, or no more than 2% byweight, or no more than 1% by weight, based on the weight of theoxidizing composition. It should be noted that this refers for exampleto bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts ortraces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the preparation ofthe compositions according to the disclosure.

The oxidizing composition can contain at least one solvent, chosen fromwater, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.

When the oxidizing composition is substantially anhydrous, the oxidizingcomposition may comprise at least one solvent chosen from organicsolvents.

Suitable organic solvents for use in the oxidizing composition includeethanol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethyl alcohol,glycols and glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol,ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propyleneglycol and its ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether,butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol alkyl ethers,such as diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monobutyl ether,hydrocarbons such as straight chain hydrocarbons, mineral oil,polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene,polydecene, squalane, petrolatum, isoparaffins, and mixtures, thereof.

The at least one solvent may, for example, be present in an amountranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, such as from 2% to 60% by weight,preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of theoxidizing composition.

The oxidizing composition may be in the form of a powder, gel, liquid,foam, lotion, cream, mousse, and emulsion.

The pH of the oxidizing composition can range from 2 to 12, such as from6 to 11, and it may be adjusted to the desired value usingacidifying/alkalizing agents that are well known in the art.

In some embodiments, the method of the present disclosure involvesproviding a pre-treatment composition containing, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium, at least one salt of the present invention, andapplying the pre-treatment composition onto keratinous substrates priorto the application of the ready-to-use composition of the presentinvention.

The present invention also provides a kit, comprising:

a first unit containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at leastone phospholipid; at least one nonionic surfactant; at least onephosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkylphosphate esters; optionally, at least one thickening agent; optionally,at least one alkaline agent; optionally, at least one fatty substanceother than a fatty acid; and optionally, at least one salt; and

a second unit comprising at least one oxidizing agent and optionally, atleast one fatty substance other than a fatty acid.

In some embodiments, the second unit comprising the oxidizing agent cancomprise a substantially anhydrous composition. The term “substantiallyanhydrous” means that the oxidizing composition is either completelyfree of water or contains no appreciable amount of water, for example,no more than 5% by weight, or no more than 2% by weight, or no more than1% by weight, based on the weight of said composition. It should benoted that this refers for example to bound water, such as the water ofcrystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the rawmaterials used in the preparation of the compositions according to thedisclosure.

The kit of the present invention can further comprise a third unitcontaining, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one salt ofthe present invention.

The kit of the present invention can be equipped with at least one ofapplicators for delivery of the desired mixture onto the hair, such asthe applicators described in French Patent No. 2 586 913.

The invention will be further clarified by the following examples, whichare intended to be illustrative of the invention, but not limitingthereof.

EXAMPLES

The following example is intended for illustrative purposes only, and isnot meant to unduly limit the scope of the invention in any way.

Example 1 Color Lift Study

Ten (10) g of each of the compositions below were mixed in a 1:1 ratiowith a 20 volume hydrogen peroxide developer. The pH of each finalmixture was about 10. Each final mixture was then applied onto adesignated swatch of natural brown level 3 hair 0.5 cm width, 15 cmlength), commercially available from IHIP, International Hair Importers.

Ingredient Formula A Formula B Formula C Formula D Lecithin 1.0% 1.0%1.0% 1.0% PPG-5 Ceteth-20  15%  15%  15%  15% Oleth-10 Phosphate 1.0%1.0% 1.0% 1.0% Mineral oil 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% 1.0% Ethanolamine 3.0% 3.0%3.0% 4.0% Sodium Sulfate 2.0% 1.0% — — Water Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

Two control formulas comprising the base formula of a commercialproduct, L'Oréal Preference™ were also applied onto separate hairswatches. Control formula 1 contained 4% ethanolamine as the alkalineagent and control formula 2 contained 10.2% ammonium hydroxide as thealkaline agent.

All swatches were processed for 30 minutes at a 27° C. heating plate,rinsed for 1 minute (80 gph, 32° C.), and dried. Color measurements weretaken before and after treatment as L values which correspond to thedegree of lightness of the color of the hair, using Konica MinoltaSpectrophotometer.

The final ΔL (change in L) value measurements on the swatches treatedwith Formulas A to D were 8.81, 6.17, 2.74, and 6.13, respectively. Thefinal ΔL (change in L) value measurements on the swatches treated withcontrol formulas 1 and 2 were 4.21 and 9.63, respectively. A greater ΔLvalue indicates a greater change in the lightness of the color of thehair which indicates a greater lift in color. The results show thatformulas A, B, and D lightened the color of the hair significantlybetter than control formula 1, while formula A lightened the color ofthe hair significantly better than formulas C and D which did notcontain sodium sulfate. Moreover, while formulas B and D had comparablelightening effects, formula B required less amount of the alkalineagent, ethanolamine, to achieve the same degree of lightening which ismore advantageous since lower levels of the alkaline agent are moredesirable. Furthermore, while formula C had a lower lightening effectthan control formula 1, it contained less ethanolamine. As for controlformula 2, this formula contained a higher level of alkaline agent, thatis, 10.2% of ammonium hydroxide, which is less desirable.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that numerousmodifications and variations can be made without departing from thespirit or scope of the invention.

1. A ready-to-use aqueous composition for lifting color and/or impartingshine onto keratinous substrates comprising, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium, a) at least one phospholipid; b) at least onenonionic surfactant; c) at least one phosphate ester chosen fromalkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; d) atleast one oxidizing agent; e) optionally, at least one thickening agent;f) optionally, at least one alkaline agent; g) optionally, at least onefatty substance other than a fatty acid; and h) optionally, at least onesalt.
 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) is chosen from lecithinand linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate.
 3. The compositionof claim 1, wherein (a) is present in an amount of from about 0.01 toabout 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein (a) is present in an amount of fromabout 1 to about 5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.5. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) has an HLB of at least about8.
 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) is present in an amount offrom about 0.1 to about 70% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 7. The composition of claim 1, wherein (b) is present in anamount of from about 1 to about 20% by weight, based on the weight ofthe composition.
 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein (c) is chosenfrom a mono-ester and its salts, a di-ester and its salts, a tri-esterand its salts, and mixtures thereof.
 9. The composition of claim 1,wherein (c) is chosen from PPG-5-Ceteth-10 phosphate, Oleth-3 phosphate,Oleth-10 phosphate, Ceteth-10 phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Cetylphosphate, Stearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
 10. The compositionof claim 1, wherein (c) is present in an amount of from greater than 0to about 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
 11. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein (c) is present in an amount of fromabout 0.5 to about 3% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.12. The composition of claim 1, wherein (d) is chosen from peroxides,bromates of alkali metals, ferricyanides of alkali metals, peroxygenatedsalts, oxidoreduction enzymes, and oxygen in air.
 13. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein (d) is chosen from peroxides and peroxygenated salts.14. The composition of claim 1, wherein (d) is present in an amount offrom about 0.05 to about 40% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 15. The composition of claim 1, wherein (d) is present inan amount of from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight, based on the weightof the composition.
 16. The composition of claim 1, wherein (d) ispresent in an amount of from about 1 to about 10% by weight, based onthe weight of the composition.
 17. The composition of claim 1, wherein(e) is chosen from a polymeric thickener and a non-polymeric thickener.18. The composition of claim 1, wherein (e) is present in an amount offrom about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, based on the weight of thecomposition.
 19. The composition of claim 1, wherein (f) is chosen fromorganic amines, organic amine salts, ammonium salts, and inorganicbases.
 20. The composition of claim 1, wherein (f) is chosen fromalkanolamines.
 21. The composition of claim 1, wherein (f) is present inan amount of from about 0.01 to about 30% by weight, based on the weightof the composition.
 22. The composition of claim 1, wherein (g) ischosen from lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids, estersof fatty alcohol, non-silicone oils, non-silicone waxes and silicones.23. The composition of claim 1, wherein (g) is a non-silicone.
 24. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein (g) is in an amount of at least 10% byweight, based on the weight of the composition.
 25. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 2 to about 12.26. The composition of claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition isless than
 7. 27. The composition of claim 1, wherein the pH of thecomposition is at least
 7. 28. The composition of claim 27, wherein (h)is chosen from salt compounds of halides, sulfates, phosphates,lactates, acetates, glycinates, aspartates, nitrates, perchlorates,carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, silicates, borates, and carboxylicacids and is present in an amount of from about 0.01 to about 30% byweight, based on the weight of the composition.
 29. The composition ofclaim 27, wherein (h) is sodium sulfate.
 30. The composition of claim 1,wherein the composition further comprises a cationic polymer.
 31. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the composition is substantially free ofammonia.
 32. A ready-to-use aqueous composition for lifting color and/orimparting shine onto keratinous substrates comprising, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium, a) from about 1 to about 5% by weight of at least onephospholipid; b) from about 1 to about 20% by weight of at least onenonionic surfactant; c) from about 0.5 to about 3% by weight of at leastone phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters andalkyl phosphate esters; d) from about 1 to about 10% by weight of atleast one oxidizing agent; e) from about 1 to about 5% by weight of atleast one thickening agent; f) from about 1 to about 10% by weight of atleast one alkaline agent; g) at least 10% by weight of at least onefatty substance other than a fatty acid; and h) from about 1 to about10% by weight of at least one salt, and wherein the pH of thecomposition is at least 7, and wherein all weights are based on theweight of the composition.
 33. A method of lifting color and/orimparting shine onto keratinous substrates, comprising applying onto thekeratinous substrates a ready-to-use aqueous composition containing, ina cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one phospholipid; b) atleast one nonionic surfactant; c) at least one phosphate ester chosenfrom alkoxylated alkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; d)at least one oxidizing agent; e) optionally, at least one thickeningagent; f) optionally, at least one alkaline agent; g) optionally, atleast one fatty substance other than a fatty acid; and h) optionally, atleast one salt.
 34. The method of claim 33, wherein the method furthercomprises: a) providing a pre-treatment composition containing, in acosmetically acceptable medium, at least one salt; and b) applying thepre-treatment composition onto the keratinous substrates prior to theapplication of the ready-to-use aqueous composition.
 35. A kit forlifting color and/or imparting shine onto keratinous substrates,comprising: 1) a first unit containing, in a cosmetically acceptablemedium: (a) at least one phospholipid; (b) at least one nonionicsurfactant; (c) at least one phosphate ester chosen from alkoxylatedalkyl phosphate esters and alkyl phosphate esters; (d) optionally, atleast one thickening agent; (e) optionally, at least one alkaline agent;(f) optionally, at least one fatty substance other than a fatty acid;and (g) optionally, at least one salt; and 2) a second unit comprisingat least one oxidizing agent and optionally, at least one fattysubstance other than a fatty acid.
 36. The kit of claim 35, wherein thekit further comprises a third unit containing, in a cosmeticallyacceptable medium, at least one salt.